A Capella of Belfast – Julian and Patricia Morgan
We left Strangford Lough at the end of June planning to head to the Faroes and return either via the Caledonian Canal, or preferably via the Outer Hebrides. A Capella of Belfast, an Allures 45.9, was packed and ready to go. Our friend Johnny was joining us for the trip up to The Faroes. We wanted to do a longer passage, go somewhere different, see some great birds and do plenty of good walking.
We managed to make a pleasingly quick trip up to Stornaway, stopping at Ballyhalbert, Crinan, Lochmaddy and The Shiants. With some long days and making the most of the tides and winds, this took about two weeks.
Arriving at Crinan – It is always good to get to Scotland
Enjoying the birds on The Shiants
We did not wait long in Stornaway for a favourable wind to head north to Vagur, on Suduroy, the most southerly island in the Faroes. We left early and followed the PredictWind passage plan so headed north north west, before gybing and heading straight to our destination. As predicted the wind was good all day, died in the evening, and then returned during the night. There was some unpleasant swell early on, but virtually no darkness and the sun shone during the day so it was a pleasant 36 hour trip. We were not sure what to expect on arrival, and the harbour master was not answering his VHF radio, so we moored up against the fishing quay. This seemed the only thing to do. We had notified immigration in advance as per the rules, and forwarded photocopies of passports and various forms via email. Importing alcohol is strictly controlled, and our supplies had been carefully counted. This appeared sufficient and no officials came to see us.
Vagur is a popular stopping point for boats heading to Iceland, but when we where there it was very quiet. We spent some days exploring Suduroy and did some good walks where we could enjoy the impressive cliffs, and bird life. Local activity by the quay was line caught cod fishing and rowing. We took the bus to Tvoroyri. Not a very interesting place but we did like the grass roof houses.
Vagur, Suduroy
Line caught cod fishing boat unloading
From Vagur we travelled north to Miovagur on the island of Vagur. In the absence of any other information, we attached ourselves to the fishing quay by the fish processing plant. We were to learn that this was to be the norm. There are a very few small marinas and the odd pontoon. Anchoring might be possible but it just did not seem attractive. This was dirty, smelly and generally an unpleasant place to be!
We left the next morning to take the favourable tide north to Vestmanna, on Streymoy Island. The tides are very strong and we found the “scary red tidal book” lent to us by fellow ICC member James Nixon, and the Rak tidal app essential. By now enormous cliffs and puffins had become normal. We tied onto the fishing quay at Vestmanna. Vestmanna was more interesting with an extensive hydro electric operation, and some good, albeit steep walking. We thoroughly enjoyed seeing the Whimbrels which nest on the high plateau. These are like small Curlews. We took the bus to the capital Torshavn. Here, we particularly liked the Old Town and the tiny houses with grass roofs, but decided we didn’t want to visit here by boat. There is a large marina.
Whimbrel flying above Vestmanna
Old Town, Torshavn
We were hoping for a favourable wind to take us north around the top of Streymoy, but this did not materialise in our time frame, but the tide was, as always, helpful. We headed for Tjornuvik. This is a spectacular amphitheatre, and given the weather we decided to anchor and had a peaceful afternoon in the sun with arctic terns and fulmars for company. Unfortunately the wind got up in the night and while the anchor held it was extremely uncomfortable. We left early and went across the sound to Eioi, on the island of Eysturoy, where we again attached to a fishing quay. The processing plant here was closed but it appeared that the area was now being used to make up salmon fishing cages.
Sailing past rocks Risin and Kellingin
Rowing is very popular. This is in Eioi
There was not much happening in Eioi so we headed south to Fuglafjordur, on Eysturoy Island. This was a good sail/float with the tide. The high cliffs make any wind very erratic. Fuglafjordur had a bit more about it – a few shops, and a restaurant of sorts, but sadly also a huge smelly fish farming food production plant. The weather had deteriorated and it was raining and very misty.
The top of Fuglafjordur
Looking down on Fuglafjordur
From Fuglafjordur we headed south to Nolsoy. This is a small island just across from Torshavn. There was a rare northerly wind forecast in a few days time, and we wanted to be in a good position to make use of this to head home. Nolsoy was delightful. We probably had our best walk in the Faroes, out to the lighthouse and saw some great birds – snipe, golden plovers, whimbrels, arctic and great skuas.
Heading down to Nolsoy in the sun
On Nolsoy island
The westerly and then northerly wind that was forecast did come and we decided to take this opportunity to head back to Scotland. We had a good return trip and arrived in Kinlockbervie, just south of Cape Wrath early in the morning. After a morning boat shuffle we were pleased to be attached to a floating pontoon.
We reflected on The Faroes. We wanted to do a longer passage and to go somewhere different. We had wanted the big scenery, some good walking and to see great birds. We certainly had all of that. We found that using fishing quays, the lack of community and facilities tiresome after a while. We hate to complain of the weather but the rain and the cold mist while sometimes very atmospheric is hard work. Scotland felt warm and friendly!
We ended up spending 10 days storm bound in Kinlochbervie. Storm Floris came through followed by strong south westerlies. There is nothing quite like being stormbound somewhere very remote, and we will remember Kinlochbervie fondly. The fishermen were very generous and we ate lobster, crab, John Dory and Halibut. We went to Inverness, a nearly 3hr bus trip and stayed with an old friend, we did some fabulous walking, we socialised with our fellow stormbound yachties and we did those boat jobs that are so easily put off.
On a beautiful walk from Scourie to Tarbert while stormbound in Kinlochbervie
Cooking crabs on A Capella. We asked for two and were given three!
Finally we headed to the Outer Hebrides. We have always wanted to spend more time there and somehow have always been in a hurry, but this time we were in no rush and we had some amazing weather.
We visited Scalpay and anchored in South Harbour. The walk to the lighthouse was delightful and made even better by the unexpected tea and cake at the lighthouse. A local fisherman even gave us some more fish.
We then moved on to anchor at Wizard pool in Loch Skipport, South Uist – stunning scenery, peaceful and quiet, and some great walking. We saw grouse and red deer on our travels.
Eriskay is lovely, but we will forever have mixed feelings about the anchorage at Acarsaid Mhor. After anchoring near the head of the bay, the wind veered and we found ourselves too close to the shore. When we raised the anchor we found that had picked up a heavy cable. We re-anchored. The next morning when we went to leave could not raise the anchor. The tripping line was of no help but we managed to drive forward and break out. We had caught ourselves on an ancient fisherman’s anchor and associated cables and debris. Thankfully our windlass was up to the task of lifting the old anchor and fortunately the fisherman’s pontoon was free so we could safely disentangle ourselves. We were relived to finally leave.
Our anchor caught up in ancient debris
It was a short motor to the Blue Lagoon between Gigha and Hellisay. Antares charts describe the entrance as “not for the faint hearted.” We agree, but it is well worth the effort. This was splendid isolation at its best – no 4G, just seals and soaring sea eagles.
The Blue Lagoon, between Gigha and Hellisay
The highlight of our time in the Outer Hebrides has to be a night anchored off Mingulay. It felt like the end of the world. Although some tourist boats came during the day we were on our own for the night, and the feared swell was minimal. The history of these islands, bought to life by the ruins make this a very magical and intriguing place. We were able to motor around Berneray before heading to Castlebay on Barra. The good weather was coming to an end and we wanted to be somewhere safe.
Stunning Mingulay – what a treat
We were stormbound in Castlebay for 10 days, sitting out the legacies of Hurricane Erin and Tropical storm Fernand. We experienced extremely strong winds and relentless rain. Fortunately there is a good bus service and we found plenty to do, and as always with the boating community, it was all very sociable.
Storm bound in Castlebay
Castlebay, Barra in better weather
Mount Heaval in Castlebay just had to be climbed
After leaving Barra and on our way home, we managed to fit in a stop at Coll to visit some friends, who had just finished a circumnativigation, and then onto Oban. In Oban we were unable to head south with consistent strong south westerlies making life very difficult. Some friends came to join us but unfortunately they had to return home without having a decent sail, such was the weather.
In the end we headed to Crinan and through the Canal. This was an unexpected treat. We had a super “buddy” boat and despite rain all day, the canal staff were very helpful and cheerful throughout. It worked out well for us and we then had a two day weather window to get home. We came through the last lock early in the morning and had a great sail down to Campbelltown. We left the pontoon early the next day and had a long (79NM) fast passage all the way back into Strangford Lough. The tide was favourable for entering the Lough and we were on our mooring for supper.
Who doesn’t love a night in the Crinan Basin?
Making our way along the Crinan Canal
Rounding Bar Pladdy and entering Strangford Lough
We had a great ten week sailing trip, and are now planning for next year.
